Getting ready to carve that special pumpkin for this year? We chose "Jack" the skeleton for our special jack o' lantern and I wanted to share a couple of pictures with you. First find the perfect pattern for you, we used :http://family.go.com/printables/article-935130-jack-skellington-pumpkin-carving-template-t/ this link will take you directly to the printable I used below. The directions on the site are very easy and be sure to read over them carefully to be sure you have a successful outcome! In case of an accident with the sculpture, repair with tooth picks. As you can see at the finished results below, it turned out great!!
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Welcome! Thank you for stopping by our page! I'm a 36 year old educated stay at home mother of a energetic 3 year old boy who keeps me on my toes! I like to research all sorts of craft ideas, recipes, activities for my son, home remedies, DIY, all the best freebies, deals, coupons, and more! God Bless The USA!
Sunday, August 12, 2012
I was recently asked if I knew of any kind of dandruff control home remedies. After a little research with my home remedy books, the following list is what I've found. It is my sincere hope that one if not all of these remedies will help!
1. To get rid of dandruff, take some strong sage tea and a little soap to wash your head, then rinse very will with a little vinegar in the rinse water.
2. One teaspoon vinegar in one cup of water is a great final rinse for the hair. It is a preventive against dandruff or scaling of the scalp.
3. Put a few drops of tea tree oil into your shampoo bottles to get rid of dandruff and for a good feeling scalp.
4. Is your dandruff problem getting you down? Keep it in check by crushing two aspirins to a fine powder and adding it to the normal amount of shampoo you use each time you wash your hair. Leave the mixture on your hair for 1-2 minutes, then rinse well and wash again with plain shampoo.
5. Got a bit of a flaky problem? To get dandruff under control, wet your hair and then rub a handful of baking soda vigorously into your scalp. Rinse thoroughly and dry. Do this every time you normally wash your hair, but only use baking soda, no shampoo. Your hair may get dried out at first. But after a few weeks your scalp will start producing natural oils, leaving your hair softer and free of flakes.
6. If itch, scaly dandruff has you scratching your head, relief may be no farther away than your refrigerator. Just massage 2 tablespoons lemon juice into your scalp and rinse with water. Then stir 1 teaspoon lemon juice into 1 cup water and rinse your hair with it. Repeat this daily until your dandruff disappears. No more itchy scalp, and you hair will smell lemon-fresh.
7. To treat a bad case of dandruff, wash your hair with your regular shampoo, then rinse with alcohol based mouth wash. You can follow with your regular conditioner.
8. The abrasiveness of ordinary table salt works great for scrubbing out dandruff before you shampoo. Grab a saltshaker and shake some salt onto your dry scalp. Then work it through your hair, giving your scalp a massage. You'll find you've worked out the dry flaky skin and are ready for a shampoo.
9. To give your dandruff the brush-off, follow up each shampoo with a rinse of 2 cups apple cider vinegar mixed with 2 cups cold water. You can also fight dandruff by applying 3 tablespoons vinegar onto your hair and massaging into your scalp before you shampoo. Wait a few minutes, then rinse it out and wash as usual.
Monday, June 4, 2012
Upcycled Denim Placemat
Before you start:
You could absolutely sew the entire project if you wish. Sewing such heavy fabrics can sometimes pose a problem for home machines and our intent was to offer an easy solution.
If you don't have any little ones, a trip to the local thrift store will provide you with more than you need.
The placemat could be backed with just about any fabric although I prefer one that is a bit sturdy. I chose some heavy duty twill that I had left over from another project.
I sewed a 'seam' around the pocket with denim top stitch thread around the pocket where I had removed it from the discarded pants to keep with the theme, but you could skip that step if you wish.
The standard size for a placemat is 18"x14". You could make yours bigger, but I would use that as a minimum.
If looking for adult jeans at the thrift store, try to find the biggest pair you and find. Take the kid's jeans pocket with you to match the color as closely as possible.
It probably goes without saying, but make sure your denim is washed first.
- Kid's jeans
- Adult jeans
- Backing fabric
- No-sew fabric adhesive tape
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Sewing machine
- Seam ripper
- Remove the pocket(s) from the kid's jeans with a seam ripper. Set aside.
- Cut out front and back leg panels from adult jeans. Make pieces as big as possible excluding the seams.
- Cut panels again making them rectangles and removing any excess.
- Sew panels together with a 1/2 seam allowance to make one large panel at least 20" wide. Ours took three panels sewn together.
- With the iron, press the seams flat.
- Measure and cut the placemat top 2" bigger than the overall desired measurement (in our case, 20"x16").
- Press a 1/2" hem on each edge of the denim. Fold over 1/2" again and press.
- Using no-sew tape attach the pocket to the front of the denim in the bottom right hand corner. The top of the pocket should be approximately 7 inches from the top edge.
- Cut your backing fabric to the exact measurement of the overall desired measurement.
- Turn the placemat over and insert the backer. Using the no-sew tape adhere the short sides first. Be sure to keep the heat on long enough for the pieces to stick firmly together.
- Cut away some of the fabric from the corners of the denim to remove some of the bulk. Fold the fabric on each end of the long side to create a diagonal line when folded over. This will create a nice mitered corner.
- Fold over long edges and adhere with no-sew tape.
Sunday, June 3, 2012
How To Work With Cardboard
I am very pleased today to bring you a tutorial on how to work with my favorite-est crafting material of all:
I've been working with cardboard even longer than I've been sewing and working with fabric. One of my most-used toys as a kid was a roll of scotch tape, with which I assembled all kinds of structures with found objects around the house. Whenever we had access to cardboard, which wasn't as often as I wished, and certainly nowhere as often as I have now, I was practically in heaven. Because I never had formal cardboard-builing lessons or read any books on how to work with cardboard, I imagined that everyone else also just winged it with cardboard. The fun has always been in the designing, experimenting and making. But based on the many requests I've received from readers, I'm thinking maybe I assumed wrong.
So today I am happy to share with you as much as I know about cardboard.
First, though - lest you think I'm any good at it - let me show you some realcardboard art - here, here, and here. When I look at work like that, I think fabric issoooooooooo last season.
Righto - now that we're all properly
demoralized inspired, let's begin!
Why Work With Cardboard?
Duh. It is SUPREME.
Just in case that doesn't convince you, let's list other lesser reasons:
- It is (in most cases) free.
- It appeals to the environmentally-conscious, pro-recycling parts of our human nature.
- It is disposable - toss it back into the recycling bin when you're done playing.
Where Can I Get It?
Anywhere. And everywhere.
- It sneaks into your home each time you bring groceries and sundries in from the store. Look for it housing cereal and diapers, on the backs of writing tablets, in between folded bedlinen.
- If you know of people who've recently moved into your neighborhood, bring them a casserole and then beg them for their moving boxes - these are often made of exceptionally sturdy cardboard.
- Bring your kids to supermarkets and members' clubs like Sam's Club and Costco, and ask the staff for cardboard boxes and the giant sheets that line their pallets. They are usually only too happy to oblige, especially when you say it's for a children's craft project.
- Conduct surveillance on your husband's (I'm stereotyping here) home improvement adventures and ferret away all the packing boxes from lawn edging, shower doors, etc.
- Wait for your freezer/TV/computer to die and then order replacements based on which ones come in the best cardboard boxes.
- Save all the shipping boxes that come in the post.
- Buy them - but only as the last resort, after scavenging all other free sources - from office supply stores.
How Do I Build A Cardboard Stash?
Case 1: If you are lucky enough to live in a huge house:
- Find a secret room.
- Throw every cardboard box you find into it.
Case 2: If you are unlucky and have to think about space:
- Cut open and flatten every cardboard box you find.
- Slide them under beds. Or between the mattress and box spring. Or behind the headboard.
Save silly little things like the inner tubes of toilet paper, paper towels and wrapping paper.
and the occasional fancy paperboard (compressed layers of paper) gem that comes along:
Somewhere along the way, you might need to decide if you're more of a cardboard box refashionist or a bona fide cardboard freak. Here's what I mean:
The Cardboard Box Refashionist:
You work primarily with cardboard boxes to turn them into things that retain the structure of the box. So stuff like cars, puppet stages, ovens, personal rocketships, that sort of thing. When you see a cardboard box, your first thought is what you could make out of it that has those dimensions. You love that the box already has corners and a flap and sides to work around. You're probably blind to regular sheets of cardboard lying around, or you think, "Hm, I wonder if I could use that as a cutting mat. Or maybe my kids might like to color on it."
If you were working with fabric, you'd be the one cutting up men's shirts and turning them into girl's frocks while retaining the button plackets, bottom hems and collars.
The Bona Fide Cardboard Freak:
You will use any cardboard to make anything. When you see a cardboard box, your first thought is to check the flute size and then cut it up into flat shapes and make something. You hate, absolutely hate how the pre-existing fold lines of the flaps limit you to cutting out pieces of certain sizes. Whenever you see large pieces of cardboard, you froth at the mouth and begin to have visions of furniture and entire houses for victims of national disasters.
If you were working with fabric, you'd be the one buying fabric in ridiculously large yardage, with plans to sew every single garment in the most recent issue of Burdastyle.
Most of us vascillate between both roles, depending on what we can get our hands on.
Any kind, silly! They are all supreme. But some are more supreme than others.
Here are some common types:
Thin, cereal-box type-
this is good for projects that require a lot of folding and rolling. Pick this for making cones, tubes and tiny boxes.
Thicker, back-of-writing-tablet type -
doesn't roll well, but folds nicely when scored (will discuss this later). Structures made from this keep their shape better than those made from the cereal-box variety.
Single Wall Corrugated Cardboard -
single layer of flutes (those wavy things) between two layers (called liners) of cardboard.
which comes in different thicknesses. Check out the size of the flutes - the smallest flute (somewhere in the middle of the stack) is in a USPS priority mail box.
Double Wall Corrugated Cardboard- double layer of flutes:
See - compared to the single wall cardboard below it.
There does exist Triple Wall Corrugated Cardboard,
but I haven't seen it yet (drats). Updated in Oct 2011: Yes, I have! Hurrah! Here it is:
Now this is one of my particularly precious stash treasures: it is extra thick, extra strong, surprisingly light
and has the prettiest pattern of corrugation. Quite different from the regular corrugated cardboard. Almost honey-comb like. I wish I knew what it was called. We found two of these strips in a box containing some household appliance, and used the first one for a ramp for matchbox cars. It lasted years.
Then there are the other kinds of 'cardboard' like paper board, cardstock, poster board but you know those already.
What Tools Do I Need?
To each his/her own. I'll share what I use:
For cutting: kitchen shears and a craft knife/NT cutter/X-acto knife/box-cutter.
For gluing: hot glue gun, UHU craft glue, masking tape and packing tape. I've seen UHU glue sold in Michaels.
What Makes Corrugated Cardboard So Strong?
Corrugated cardboard gets its strength from the flutes between its liners. They dictate how you can manipulate the cardboard itself, but when used correctly, can add a lot of strength to a structure.
First, and most obviously, avoid including pre-existent creases, unless you want them for a particular reason. These are weakened areas in the cardboard.
Second, make fold, bend and roll lines parallel to the flutes.
Let's come back to that in a minute. First, let's work with regular cereal-box cardboard:
Suppose you want to join two little pieces at an angle, like the walls of a tiny box. First, you'd need to make a little overlapping tab for applying some adhesive. Sorta like a seam allowance.
For it to bend, you'd need to score a fold line. This just means you scratch a line with something thin that will weaken the surface but not cut through it. Like the back of a knife blade.
Then you can make a neat fold.
You'd put some glue on the underside of the folded tab
and attach it to another piece.
You could score and fold in any orientation because cereal box cardboard has no corrugation.
With corrugated cardboard, you'd have to pay attention to how the flutes are lined up.
You'd want your fold line to be parallel to the flutes- this way you only distort one or two flutes in the fold and the rest of the piece remains strong. If the cardboard is especially thick, you might need to score the fold line first.
Suppose you needed to fold in the perpendicular direction. With very thick corrugated cardboard, you might not even be able to bend it in this orientation. So you'd score
before folding. Notice the upper liner and the flutes have had to split in order for the fold to happen. This means the fold is only as strong as that bottom liner layer i.e. much weaker than if you'd folded it parallel to the flutes, as we did earlier.
is like making a series of gentle bends to attain a curve. Again this is done with the bends parallel to the flutes.
This is a thin piece of corrugated cardboard rolled in the wrong direction (perpendicular to the flutes) - there is a horrible, uneven mess of creases in the middle.
One of the questions I've most often been asked is how I cut cardboard.
If the cardboard is thin and small, I use scissors:
If the cardboard is thin but large and hard to manouevre with scissors, I use my craft knife on a cutting mat (yes, the same one I use for fabric). I draw the knife along a ruler edge for straight cuts, or free-hand around curves. This is especially helpful in cutting out holes and windows.
If the cardboard is thick, I use the same knife as a saw. I hold the cardboard away from the cutting board and use an up-down sawing motion all around the outline.
Assembling Without Glue:
If you are working with a cardboard box, you can assemble the usual box-way, for instance, tucking in the flaps:
or taping them down.
You could also make simple slot joints:
Assembling With Glue:
When making flat structures (like cardboard cookies and that fraction puzzle), Elmer's White Glue works OK. It's especially safe for children. When making 3D structures however, I don't use Elmer's White Glue. It's strong enough for wood, yes, but it dries slowly and requires either a clamp or someone to actually hold the pieces together in place overnight. If I am joining two pieces that don't require special, fiddly positioning, I use a hot glue gun. It's fast and strong. Otherwise, I use my UHU craft glue - it's fast, but not instant like hot glue. I can slide things around to position them for a few seconds before it dries.
If you remember, attaching thin cardboard together at their edges requires an overlap tab. Thick corrugated cardboard, having an actual edge of its own, doesn't require a tab. Glue can be applied directly to the edge to adhere it to a surface. Here is a series of pictures to show you how a curved surface was glued to a flat circular base - this was Rapunzel's Tower from here:How Do I Design Cardboard Structures?
Ah, the million-dollar question.
I don't know. You'd have to look around you and get inspired, I guess. Look at architecture. Look at toys. Let the ideas percolate for a few months. Then sketch them out. Anything made of cardboard can be translated into wood for a sturdier and more permanent product. The converse is true - anything made of wood/plastic can be replicated in cardboard. Even furniture!
If you're new to cardboard, start with the cereal box kind of projects - cut out masks, make little teepees, retractable telescopes, indoor boomerangs, little cars for Playmobil.
If you're ready for something 3D, grab a box and cut holes in it. Turn it into a fishtank, a cage, a puppet stage, a washing machine, a castle.
Ask your children what they think the box should become. I guarantee you they will have very strong opinions. It doesn't matter if everybody starts out making a featureless tunnel out of boxes and calling it a space shuttle. Over time, you will find the motivation to add things to it - a round window, wings, a flip-up door, maybe even wiggly little control knobs. Sometimes make toys for your kids, but also make toys with your kids, so they get to see you think, plan, build and develop an idea. Fun has so many levels!
Here is a roundup of some old cardboard projects - child's play (literally!) compared to those real works of art I linked to earlier. I don't usually include templates or patterns because the size of the product depends entirely on the size of the cardboard sheet/box I have to work with. And much as I'd like to build giant cardboard structures, I've been banned by the husband due to space constraints. Click on each of the pictures to take you back to (where available) the original posts.